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Rear axle?
Lift kit?
Trans?
The RE hack-n-tap is a quality setup for the 242 if you are reasonable with your offroading and not beating your xj.
Yoke is nice if you can find it for cheap.then you have to modify it for mounting.I ended up just buying RE H-N-tap and a flange and installed on factory front shaft.
Shaftmasters.com Spicer X FL SCKT yoke assy $58 and 3 u-joints Spicer 5-153X $13 each.$15 Junk yard front shaft from auto trans xj and rebuild it(perfect).I have dana 44 rear so you may need longer shaft if you have a 35.I have 6" lift,no transfer case drop and used 6 degree shims.
Factory front shafts will be fine with a couple of junk yard backups.My 242 I just bought,had a bent tailshaft so cutting strait with radiak was impossible.I just stopped the engine and finished it off, and now bought a new tailshaft.Still had vibes with the bent shaft.
I made a drill/tap guide when drilling to keep it strait.Not easy without.I'm going to do this job at work for the second time with the new shaft outside the t-case on a lathe.New seals/bearings/c-clips/c-clip pliers/press,$150.00 in parts.
Be ready because if you screw up(break the tap off)plan on buying another tailshaft and related parts.
Total cost: with RE h-n-t(without seal kit for older xj's)/ rebuilt t-case/backup factory front and front w/flange driveshafts and installed rebuilt factory front driveshafts/6 degree shims. $450.00
With the yoke setup you could replace a bent shaft with any front shaft to get out of trouble and it sits closer to the t-case for less vibes.
With the flange setup you would need to move the flange over to the replacment driveshaft or have an extra.
The flange setup makes your drivshaft longer so as to keep the slip spline compressed more.Good also.If using the lighter front DS on the rear, you don't want that skinny slip spline extended out to much.
I priced the yoke from inlandempire driveline $130.00 and you still have to modify it.
I got two flanges,two front DS's w/new u-joints(6) for only $50.00 bucks More.
www.Shaftmasters.com :thumbup:
I bring backup drivshafts on the trail anyway.
RE H-N-T splines fit perfect so I'm not worried about it.
This is all to do it cheap so none of this is "the best way".:cheers:
I'm just giving my experience and not "telling" anyone what to do.:yap:
That 8.25 should work with the front shaft,as a rear.
Do yourself a favor and run your drivtrain without the driveshafts a check for runout which could be source of vibes.Because you are only lifted 4.5 and have the t-case tail cone support I'm surprised you need a SYE.My 87 never needed even with 6" lift.
It will run smoother with the SYE though.
RE h-n-t recommends making a drill guide out of your slip yoke.I made a better guide with bushings for both drill and tap and also use a Q (.332)drill instead of the:huh: 21/64 th's(.328) drill in the kit.The +.004 diff is important to tap the lightly heat treated tailshaft.
And don't drill a small pilot hole.I drilled,drilled,drilled and said oh yah, I'll do alittle with a pilot,then Like drilling Brass(never ever use a pilot hole) the second drill caught and broke off and I got lucky that it came out easy.(pissed off bigtime):flamemad:Just be patient and clean often and use lots of oil frequently.
Small tap handle also for clearance or drop trans support down alittle to give room.
Also don't put the red locktight Untill you test fit(check that your taped hole is deep enough) and are happy with everthing.
Hope this helps anyone doing this job.
I'm just giving my experience and not "telling" anyone what to do.:yap:
That 8.25 should work with the front shaft,as a rear.
Do yourself a favor and run your drivtrain without the driveshafts a check for runout which could be source of vibes.Because you are only lifted 4.5 and have the t-case tail cone support I'm surprised you need a SYE.My 87 never needed even with 6" lift.
It will run smoother with the SYE though.
RE h-n-t recommends making a drill guide out of your slip yoke.I made a better guide with bushings for both drill and tap and also use a Q (.332)drill instead of the:huh: 21/64 th's(.328) drill in the kit.The +.004 diff is important to tap the lightly heat treated tailshaft.
And don't drill a small pilot hole.I drilled,drilled,drilled and said oh yah, I'll do alittle with a pilot,then Like drilling Brass(never ever use a pilot hole) the second drill caught and broke off and I got lucky that it came out easy.(pissed off bigtime):flamemad:Just be patient and clean often and use lots of oil frequently.
Small tap handle also for clearance or drop trans support down alittle to give room.
Also don't put the red locktight Untill you test fit(check that your taped hole is deep enough) and are happy with everthing.
Hope this helps anyone doing this job.
i appreciate all the advice canyonman :cheers:. im i drivetrain newb of sorts. haha. and its not that i NEED the sye, i dont get vibes anymore, though i did when i first installed the lift, i would rather have it for piece of mind and gain that inch of ground clearance back from the t-case drop.
and howd you make a guide for drilling the hole?
good points
i see where you got the seal, the website, but how do you go about ordering one? is there another place that would carry one that would work?
I give the specs of the inside and outside diameter of the seal so should be able to find something in the US at a bearing place. That is all I did when I found that one. Just gave them the yoke outer diameter and the housing inner size and they gave me that one. Been in for a few years now and still not a drop on the ground from it.