I’m getting ready to replace the timing belt on my '97 Hyundai Elantra. Are all aftermarket timing belts pretty much the same? Is a factory replacement the way to go?
I have a NAPA, a CarQuest, and an Advanced Auto in my town, and a dealer nearby. Just wondering from whom I should get this vital component.
Thanks!
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Your choices are: Gates, Dayco or Goodyear for after market. Any other brands most probably made by either of the 3 companies. For more expensive belt, go to the dealer. Just so you know, the OEM is not made by the car maker. They are still made by one of the 3 belt makers with the difference that the OEMs were marked with the OEM logo (brand, #, etc)…
I suspected OEM belts had to be supplied by someone. Any idea of what stores carry what brands?
You’ll have to do the research yourself. It’s IMPOSSIBLE for us to tell you what stores in your area carry what brands…especially since we don’t know where you live.
Get a price for aftermarket…then check the OEM price. As I stated the OEM belts I’ve bought (Honda Accords and Nissan Pathfinders) were only $1 or 2 more then aftermarket. Not sure who makes their OEM belt.
Any idea of what stores carry what brands?
While it is true that the manufacturers don’t make the belts, any belt that carries their name is made to their specifications. Belts from non-OEM manufacturers don’t necessarily meet the same specifications.
If I were looking into doing this job myself, I would be looking for more than the timing belt. I would be looking for the whole timing belt replacement kit, which might include other items like the timing belt tensioner and any other items you might need for the job, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendation. An auto parts store might have the whole kit, but personally, I would buy it at a dealership. It might be worth a few extra dollars. Sometimes you get what you pay for.
I found out that NAPA timing belts are made by Gates which seem to have a good reputation, so I am going with one of theirs. It comes as a kit with
the tensioner pulley. The idler was not included, so I’m going to check out the idler when I have it apart and examine it.
I’ve been a government fleet mechanic for 25 (+) years. The only time you should use carquest, advanced, autozone, etc is when you are buying parts for a car you don’t plan to keep. Napa is very reliable and trustworthy eventhough you’ll find their prices are a bit higher - there is a reason why they have been around longer then the latest chain/7-11 parts stores. Factory parts are often the best route to go if you want to pay their prices - rediculous. Remeber, there is always some geeky little crackhead at the dealership just waiting to soak up your money.
If you have ever walked through a NAPA, CARQUEST, BIG A, ALL PRO and a few others you will find all of them stock mostly the same brands. It’s the Zones and Advances that sell sub-par quality parts. Some brands are better than OEM, Moog suspension in particular.
“Factory parts are often the best route to go if you want to pay their prices - rediculous. Remeber, there is always some geeky little crackhead at the dealership just waiting to soak up your money.” Since he lost his job as a goverment fleet mechanic for 25 (+) years.
How is that AutoZone or Advance sells sub-par parts? Both places have gladly handed me MOOG suspension parts, Melling oil pumps, Fel-Pro gasket sets, Bosch O2 sensors, Goodyear belts and hoses, Perfect Circle piston rings, Timken bearings, Motorcraft alternators/starters, Raybestos brakes, etc., etc.
I’ve never had a problem with Car Quest either; at least when we had one in this area. It closed not due to shoddy parts but a store manager who was into dirt racing and keeping his buddies supplied with Car Quest Corporate parts at sharply discounted or free rates. Eventually, to almost a 100 grand, he pushed it too far…
Because a timing belt uses rubber, it wears out faster than a metal chain, so replacing it at periodic intervals is critical. If you skip the replacement, you could end up with a dead engine.
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The belt transfers the rotation of the crankshaft via the crank timing gear to the camshaft gears. Most engines that use timing belts have overhead cams. As the crankshaft spins, the belt spins the cams at a 2:1 speed, meaning there’s one cam rotation for every two crank rotations. The belt ensures the cams stay in time with the crankshaft. If the camshaft timing is adjustable, it’s done through the cam gears.
There are two kinds of engines: interference and non-interference. In an interference engine, when the valves are open, the piston can touch the valve at top dead center (TDC). A non-interference engine is one where the valves can be fully open when the piston is at TDC.
Why does that matter? If the timing belt stretches, breaks, or jumps a cog in an interference engine, the piston will most likely hit valves, which will bend or break the valve head and can break the piston. This almost always results in a destroyed engine that requires a total rebuild or replacement. Non-interference engines do not damage themselves when the belt fails. Check your specific engine by make, model, and year, as most manufacturers use both engine styles.
Most timing belts should be replaced every 60,000 to 100,000 miles. Check your owner’s manual to find the recommended change interval.
When changing the timing belt, most manufacturers recommend replacing the water pump simultaneously. Many timing belt kits come with a new water pump as well.
While most belts will last beyond the recommended replacement interval, they will show signs of aging. Look for cracking, frayed edges, and missing or damaged cogs. It can be difficult to get to the timing belt to look for signs, as some engines have it buried under the front covers, accessory drive, and valve covers. Other engines have removable access covers that pop off easily to check the belt.
But a timing belt can always fail without any outward signs, making preventative maintenance the key to a long-lived engine. Changing the belt when you are at or near the recommended interval is the best bet.
Shop now for timing belt kitsOutside of physical signs on the belt, you may have some issues with the engine, such as misfiring, black smoke from the exhaust, difficult starts, and an illuminated check engine light.
For most vehicles, replacement can cost $500 to $1,100 at a shop. If it’s difficult to access the engine or the belt, the service can run more than $2,000.
Timing belts are not expensive. For most applications, you can get a complete kit with a water pump, gaskets, tensioner, and belt for less than $200—or the belt alone for less than $100.
Replacing a timing belt is a moderate-level repair job. The basic replacement is not difficult, just time-consuming. But the peril is high, as you can easily get the timing of the cams wrong if you do not start with the engine in the correct position or if you move the cams during the process.
Every engine is different, but there are usually marks on the cam gears for the TDC position. These marks are either noted to point to a specific mark on the cylinder head(s) or to a certain clocking (12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, etc.). If you just pull the covers, remove the belt, and put the new one on without checking the timing, you can cause significant damage.
When changing a timing belt, you should have all the required parts gathered and ready to install.
These are the basic steps to replacing a timing belt. Your engine may require additional steps or parts. When you follow the guidelines and pay attention to the details, you should be able to change your timing belt in an afternoon.
Be sure to note the mileage on the vehicle when you replace the belt to know when you need to change it the next time.
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