I get the feeling they all come from the same plant. Maybe there's one that makes quality bearings and another that does cheaper ones.
Beijing SKF are exported all over the world and different industries with quality first. Our belief is to provide our customers with more and better high value-added products. Let's create a better future together.
When I put together my differential I bought bearings that had SKF on the box but KOYO JAPAN or KOYO INDIA stamped on them. I also have a tapered wheel bearings in a Federal Mogul box with SKF stamped on them.
wvumtnbkr said:FAG is also good quality. Any of the above should be good to go.
I had forgotten about FAG. Thanks.
After checking out FAG in addition to Timken and SKF I deduced that Timken was roughly half the price of SKF and FAG except on rockauto. Also there were 213 Timken results on ebay vs 6 for FAG and 13 for SKF. This made me think getting real Timken bearings might be more of a gamble than SKF or FAG (at least from ebay) and rockauto had SKF and FAG bearings cheaper than anywhere else (not by a ton but enough to offset shipping) also that FAG bearing were the most expensive of the three anywhere they were sold (but not by much on rockauto where they were 94 for Timken, 95 for SKF and 110 for FAG each respectively) Using the old adage you get what you pay for I bought the FAG bearings. Not at all because my 12 year old brain got to type out that acronym multiple times to make this post.
Tons of fake Timmy-Kins out there these days. Ordered a set up for my van (2 separate sellers, river store), one was a real nice USA made with name brand bearings, one looked striking similar but had no markings on any of the bearings, less machining on the hub, and generally a cruddier appearance. Presume the crappier looking one is not legit.
Sent them both back after doing a deep dive an ordered OEM Ford. Roughly the same price, but I know they are decent.
I wanted to post a follow up since I had to do the same hubs a year ago and that was a rust and 4 letter word filled 18 hour slog that I was determined to not repeat because as everyone said, buy the cheap bearings and you'll be doing the job again next year.
So, in preparation every mating surface where the hub touched a curve and it slid through to mount I put Mobil 1 synthetic grease in a thin coat onto. This year I took my time and everything slid apart like it was made to do so. Total job was done in 3 hours including getting the quick jack down and putting it away again. So easy. One tip I learned that I did not do last time was to tighten the axle nut to the hub before putting the wheel back on. I used the parking brake to do so. I didn't know that you can cause premature wear if you put the wheel on first and lower the car so there's sideways pressure on the bearing before you torque it down. Edit: I also learned that I don't have to take the parking brakes apart to get the hub in and out so that saved me another hour not putting those back together.
If I don't get lifetime wear out of this set of hubs at least I won't be fighting rusted together hubs like the first time.
OE parts from a dealer will 99.% of the time never need modification to fit the application.
Wheel bearings will always last longer if you idiots, about 89% of "mechanics/technicians" out there, would quit impacting the retention nut on. You are brinelling the bearing and race surfaces with your 3k ft/lb impact. When I quit doing the impact it on approach, bearings easily tripled in mileage and life expectancy. I use the tire and wheel as my friction to hold everything in place and torque it on the ground. It's worked for all the ones I've had to replace on gmt800's that eat front wheel bearings like pez. I'm currently on the set I put on the Avalanche in a hotel parking lot in NM 3 yrs ago(?) and almost 100k miles.
I want to buy Timken US bearings for my Oliver Elite II and have not had any luck in find a supplier at a reasonable cost.
I do not want to buy through Amazon because I am afraid they will be selling Timken Chinese knock offs bearings, not real US Timken bearings, as I have seen mentioned in other Oliver forum threads.
I spoke to Timken direct and was able to confirm the bearing and cup part numbers along with a part number for a National Seal but they would not sell to individuals,
It seems I have been getting the "run-around" from Timken on where I can buy their bearings. The told me to go to their web site locator and the site will tell where I can buy Timken bearings. Timken's web site directed me to VIP Discount Auto. VIP no longer sells parts and VIP sent me over to their parts cousin, O'Riely Auto, and they do not sell Timken bearings either.
I contacted every automotive parts store in my state and they do not sell Timken Bearings.
I then contacted Dexter Axle and they would sell me their bearings but could (or would not) tell me who made the bearings they sell.
Dexter then referred me to Southwestwheel.com and they would sell me Timken bearings. To buy one set of timken inner bearing and its cup, the outer bearing and its cup and a National Seal they wanted $61.18 per wheel which is $245.92 for a set of 4.
HELP! Has anyone found a place to buy legimitate Timken bearings?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I have found Timken bearings hard to find and there appears to be some relationship between Timken and National. I am in the process (as needed) of replacing my bearings and have been replacing them with National Bearings. They are made in China but my sense and hope is they are built under more stringent perimeters. I have attached National Light Trailer Bearing and Seal Guide with the Dexter 3.5K axle highlighted. The hand written note at the bottom is another choice for the seal from E-Trailer that I like as it has a reinforcing spring within the seal. My sense and I believe others have stated that if you do the proper annual wheel bearing maintenance as prescribed by OTT that you will be ok as you will see problems before they become critical. I purchased my bearings at O'Reilly Auto Parts and have been satisfied thus far. I feel they are better than the original bearings but not as good as Timken if you can find them. As others have said use good wheel bearing grease. I use No. 2 Mystik JT6 which OTT uses. I know others have their favorites also. Good luck!National Light Trailer Bearing Guide.pdf
Edited February 26, by WandRI'm planning on buying kits for our 3.5K axles as well to have spares on the road.
Looking for part numbers I found this...but I'ld like confirmation from the forum members.
The company is the world’s best TIMKEN Bearings Distributors supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
This is a pix of the Axle lable for our Elite II -
Found t
Below in the table is the replacement chart from the Dexter User Materials.
The last row I believe has the part numbers for the 3.5K Axles.
Can anyone here confirm the part numbers for our 3.5K Elite II axles are
Named as "set 4" - L/L
Named as "set 17" - are the L/L.
I'm thinking of buying the kits.
Craig
On 2/26/ at 5:51 AM, dewdev said:Universal Part# Timken Part #
Outer Bearing Cone L SET4
Outer Cup L Included in SET4
Inner Bearing L SET17
Cup L included in SET17
Seal -
For the less bearing experienced, the "Cup" is the running surface of the bearing housing. Some refer to this replacement surface as the "Bearing Race". They are the same part, and should always be replaced when replacing the bearings. The reason for buying eight seals is that you need to replace the seals at each surface. The Timken bearings will last many many years with good grease and service. The seals generally get damaged in their removal process. They are cheap and saving a few $$ is nothing compared to a seal failure allowing grease into the brakes!
I disassemble, clean with brake cleaner, dry and re-grease at the start of each season. But then I am also covering at least 8,000 miles a season.
The cheap Dexter bearings IMHO should be trashed at your first or second service depending on your use.
For the bearings and seal face, this is the synthetic grease that John Davies recommended, and many of us are using. I also highly recommend it:
Red Line CV-2 Synthetic Grease with Moly (14 Oz Jars) . It is available via Amazon.
Some owners use a "bearing grease press" to fill the bearings with grease before installation. I have tried some, and found that I waste a lot of grease with them. So, like many older salts, we just use the palm of our hand and a dollop of grease, kneading the bearing into the grease from both sides. This works very well, saves grease, and gives you the satisfaction of KNOWING that your new bearings are well lubricated.
From Dexter, here is the Bearing Adjustment and Hub Replacement process:
Finally, having a pile of rags and a trash bag handy is really helpful.
Good luck and safe travels,
Geronimo John
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit SKF Bearings Distributors.