A pair of fully waterproof shoes can be liberating. They let you move through the world unhindered, without any consideration for the mess around your feet.
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Although they’re particularly useful if you live where wet weather is common, rain boots are practical for all types of places. They remain effective long after the drops stop falling, especially when you have mud in place of dirt, slush instead of snow, or slick subway platforms.
Rain boots are also great for doing chores outside the house, like taking out the trash or walking the dog, because they’re so easy to slide on at the door, then kick off on your way back in.
Rain boots are generally branded as either men’s or women’s, and we’ve kept this naming scheme to make it easier for people to find styles that match what they want to wear. But in the world of rainwear, there’s little difference between boots labeled as “women’s” or “men’s,” so as long as the boot fits, any boot will work for anyone.
With the most slip-resistant outsole of any boot we tested, these work best in a wet, watery mess. They’re also among the most comfortable for walking.
With the most slip-resistant outsole of any boot we tested, these work best in a wet, watery mess. They’re also among the most comfortable for walking.
Who this is for: People who want one pair of highly versatile outdoor shoes that are easy to slip on and off. These boots function foremost as rain boots, but they also make for a comfortable pair of three-season outdoor shoes that can manage outdoor walks, grip slippery metal like grates and train tracks, and remain easy to drive in.
Why it’s great: The Xtratuf Ankle Deck Boot (in men’s and women’s sizes) is designed to keep its wearer upright on a wet fishing boat, but despite its utilitarian origins, it looks good enough for city wear. This boot has a versatile and comfortable shape as functional as the workwear it’s descended from, and it’s styled sort of like a Chuck Taylor.
Rubber doesn’t conform to a foot like leather does, so ankle-high, wide-mouthed, and round-toed are among the most functional styles of rain boots. They’re easier to walk and drive in because they don’t restrict calf movement. The wider foot opening makes the boot easy to slip on and off, and that’s what rain boots are all about: a quick transition between indoor and outdoor worlds. This design even has a kick tab—a tiny nub of rubber at the back of the shoe that lets you, yep, kick off your shoes when you come inside. Finally, the rounded toe is important; it’s the reason why these Xtratufs are more comfortable to walk in for extended periods than other boots. A narrow, tapered, inflexible toe box rubs against your toes.
In our traction tests, Xtratuf boots always outperform other models—and they should, as the flat-footed, soft rubber sole is built to cling to waterlogged boat decks. The tread on these boots is shallower than the tread on the Xtratuf Legacy boots, a former pick. That’s an advantage for anyone not using them to fish crab out of the northern Pacific, because tiny gravel and rocks won’t get stuck in the Ankle Deck Boot's tread (a small issue we found with the Legacy model).
The Xtratuf Ankle Deck Boot is our recommendation for wet-weather bike commuting, too. In our tests these boots clung to slippery platform pedals better than anything we tried, though they allowed some unwanted movement since rain boots don’t hug the foot very well. (The perfect combination of flexible, waterproof, and not-horrible-looking bike footwear remains elusive.)
After more than four years of use, Xtratuf’s Ankle Deck has proven itself the absolute best rain boot out there. Everybody comments on them, everyone wonders where I got them, I’ve even had a woman get off her bike in the middle of spin class and point to them, tossed in a pile with my workout bag, and ask where I got them.
They’ve replaced a number of other shoes I own, including almost every bad-weather shoe that had laces. I use them in spring for mud, summer for wet, and fall and early winter for snow, switching only to my winter boots when the snow starts piling up.
The slip-on, slip-off feature has been this boot’s biggest asset. This is my go-to choice for almost every single chore, walk, or errand I do.
Although the Ankle Deck Boot comes in men’s and women’s sizes, the fit and shape are similar. I typically wear a women’s size 9, but I own a men’s size 8 in the navy/red color of this shoe and have no problems with fit.
Flaws but not dealbreakers: One of the few downsides of the Xtratuf Ankle Deck Boot is that the styling is very casual. We do have a unisex pick, the Merry People Bobbi Ankle Rain Boot, that looks less like a tennis shoe and more like a plain boot. (Its grip isn’t as sticky, though, as that of the Xtratuf.)
Men’s sizes: 7 to 14
Additional men’s styles: Legacy, Steel Toe Legacy, Leather, Wheelhouse, Sport, Ice, Legacy Lace-Up, Leather Lace-Up
Men’s colors: about half a dozen solid colors and a handful of camo patterns
Women’s sizes: 5 to 11
Additional women’s styles: Legacy, Wheelhouse, Sport, Vintage, Trolling Pack
Women’s colors: about a dozen solid colors and patterns
A duck boot laces tighter to your foot than a rubber boot, so it’s not as easy to slip on and off. However, it performs in both wet and muddy conditions.
A duck boot laces tighter to your foot than a rubber boot, so it’s not as easy to slip on and off. However, it performs in both wet and muddy conditions.
Who this is for: People who are less concerned about slipping a shoe on and off quickly, but more interested in a shoe that can take abuse in a variety of wet and muddy conditions. These are also the de facto “stylish boot” for men.
Why it’s great: Duck boots are a style of outdoor footwear pioneered by L.L.Bean. They feature the rubber soles and lower half of a rain boot along with a leather upper that laces tight like on a traditional boot. Our favorite duck boot is the 8-inch unlined Bean Boot for men and women. L.L.Bean is quick to point out that its design is the original duck boot, but that’s not why it’s our pick. If you want a shoe styled like a duck boot, you can find dozens of options. If you want a boot that’s one of the most thoughtfully designed pieces of gear for being outdoors, this is the boot to choose.
Outdoor professionals often say that you should never carry anything with you that can’t perform at least two different tasks (ideally three). This shoe handles three things well: comfortable walking, dealing with mud, and tolerating wet weather. Our other picks can handle all that stuff in varying degrees but typically have a single condition they perform best in. This shoe was designed to handle all three of those problems equally and simultaneously.
The laced leather around the calf is responsible for a lot of that functionality. The leather lets your ankle move freely for walking (and driving), while the laces hug it close to your leg so you can pull your foot out of sucking mud without leaving your boot behind.
The bottom of the boot is cross-functional, too. It has a thicker heel than on most other boot types, so it will take longer to wear through, and the shallow, rounded tread is built for releasing debris; you can easily rinse it off, as well. And in the base of the shoe, these boots have a steel shank, a piece of metal in the sole that runs from the ball to the heel of the foot. This is a feature sometimes found in work boots, and it protects the foot from below and keeps the shoe from wearing out quickly.
The rubberized base of the boot shaft gives extra inches of waterproofing for walking through deep, curbside puddles, and the leather tongue is gusseted—attached on the inside of the boot on both sides—so the shoe remains waterproof for the entire height of the boot.
Style-wise, it’s difficult to design a duck boot that laces flat, but this one does okay. Something about how the separate rubber and leather pieces are sewn together often creates funny leather protrusions around the eyelets and causes the tongue to bunch up. Every other duck boot we looked at failed to master the flat lacing. Even when the problem was small, as on the Eddie Bauer Hunt Pac, once we saw it we couldn’t unsee it.
It’s hard to overstate the popularity of these shoes. The biggest publications in the world have pondered that exact phenomenon, and Popular Mechanics neatly sums it up in the title of its article, “The Never-Ending Greatness of L.L. Bean’s Boots.” The Atlantic does the same, explaining “Why L.L. Bean’s Boots Keep Selling Out.” Current fashion trends aside, anyone who owns a pair will likely tell you it’s because the boots last for decades, and because they’re happy to be able to support a company that still makes its boots in the USA (in Maine).
Flaws but not dealbreakers: The original Bean Boot is unlined, and we like that, since it keeps the shoe true to its nature as a multi-seasonal, versatile piece of outdoor kit. You can decide what kind of weather you want to use it in and choose the thickness of your socks accordingly. But if that’s not your thing, many other styles are available: You can get the boot flannel lined, shearling lined, Gore-Tex lined, or padded around the ankle.
The leather upper on this boot requires some breaking in, and so do the laces, which are coated and slippery to start out. But they do break in eventually.
Also, when you lace the upper tightly, sometimes it can create a sensation of your foot floating around slightly in the rubber bottom part. So depending on variables such as how your foot fits and how thick your socks are, you may experience a small amount of movement inside the boot, but we haven’t found the effect to be a nuisance.
Men’s sizes: 7 to 14
Men’s widths: narrow B, medium D, wide EE
Men’s colors: tan/brown, basil/black/orange, tan/teal/orange
Women’s sizes: 6 to 11
Women’s widths: narrow AA, medium B, wide D
Women’s colors: tan/brown, tan/navy, navy/light blue
This unisex boot is made with natural rubber and lined with neoprene, which adds warmth and comfort to the entire shoe.
Who this is for: If your feet get cold, the 4-millimeter neoprene lining on these boots will go a long way to keep your feet extra warm. These are also great if you want simple, everyday styling without downgrading to cheaper boots made with less durable materials.
Why it’s great: A basic unisex boot in a timeless shape, the Merry People Bobbi Ankle Rain Boot could be the only bad-weather boot you need. It has a natural rubber sole and an upper 4-millimeter of neoprene lining for added warmth and comfort, plus a subtle 1-inch heel and classic Chelsea boot styling that looks good on everyone.
The neoprene lining is the big differentiator between these and our other options, and it functions in multiple ways. Aside from keeping your foot insulated, and therefore a lot warmer than just a rubber shell, it also hugs the foot a little more, and lines the footbed, giving the whole shoe a much more snug, comfortable fit that only neoprene can.
The ankle opening is narrower than other boots, which is almost always a dealbreaker, but because the neoprene is so stretchy you can still get your foot in and out fairly easily, and your ankle can flex while driving. And that elastic panel, the most recognizable feature of a Chelsea boot, is designed to keep out as much water as possible: The opening itself is quite small, which is important, and the neoprene is waterproof.
Aside from being made from inferior materials, cheaper boots in this style have a universally bad design. They’re impossible to pull on, their toe boxes are narrow, and their elastic occupies such a huge space that they couldn’t keep a foot dry on a cloudless day in the desert. We had these problems with both the Sam Edelman Tinsley and the Asgard boot.
Flaws but not dealbreakers: These boots are very close to being our favorite boots because of how well all the design elements work together, but they don’t surpass our top pick in terms of traction and ease of use. The stickiest shoe is the Xtratuf, and that’s important, so we still recommend those as our top choice.
Sizes: Unisex sizes, the equivalent of women’s 5-14, and men’s 4-13
Colors: About two dozen solid colors and color combinations
Hunter boots have an iconic slim silhouette and style, so get them for that reason. But they also have the quality to back up their high price tag, and are easy to slide on and off.
Hunter boots have an iconic slim silhouette and style, so get them for that reason. But they also have the quality to back up their high price tag and are easy to slide on and off.
Who is this for: People who want to wear something well-made and fashionable. Hunter got its start producing footwear for the British army in World War I and World War II but is more known today as the creator of the de facto “stylish boot” for women.
Why it’s great: We think the men’s and women’s Hunter Original Short Rain Boots are the best choice for a high-end boot. Many readers have asked us if Hunters are worth the price, and we can confirm that the quality lines up with the higher premium. These boots are also more widely available than any other luxury option.
Everything about the design is thoughtful. First, the boot is built entirely of rubber. To reduce some of the weight of that rubber, Hunter removes small chunks of it from the inside of the heel. The tread pattern doesn’t trap debris, and it channels water away like a wet-weather tire, making these boots some of the stickiest in our traction tests. These are the only boots we looked at that had a fully sealed and finished upper rim, enclosing the lining underneath, and after five years of hard use that lining hasn’t peeled, and we haven’t noticed any other significant wear.
We looked into testing other heritage brands such as Aigle and Le Chameau, but the inventory changed rapidly during our research period. For this reason we decided to pass on testing them for now, because we didn’t want to recommend something that would be hard to find later. However, if we get the chance we’ll give them a look.
Flaws but not dealbreakers: Reviewers often mention that Hunters, specifically the tall boots, don’t fit their calves—and that’s why we’d choose the shorty version, which is short enough that this problem doesn’t crop up. The calf buckle is not functional, a surprise considering that every other feature has a purpose. One of our editors at Wirecutter who owns a pair says that although she loves the way her Hunters look, they’re very difficult for her to take off.
Also, the insole is flat-footed and one of the least comfortable we tried, and these boots—especially the tall boots—can be on the heavy side. These are not the boots to buy if you prize comfort above style.
Men’s sizes: 6 to 13
Men’s colors: about half a dozen solid colors
Women’s sizes: 5 to 11
Women’s colors: about two dozen solid colors
If you need a boot for heavy muck and mud: Consider the Bogs Classic High for women and men. These easy-to-take-on-and-off neoprene and rubber boots have a glove-like fit and excel in muddy conditions. The sole of a good mud boot should do two things: prevent debris from getting stuck in the bottom, and release your foot from the mud. Unlike rain boots that have flat, squared-off soles, a mud boot often has a rounded sole, which breaks surface tension and releases your foot from sticky stuff. It sounds like a tiny difference, but it works. You also won’t see any narrow channels on the tread of the Bogs Classic; it can take hosing off and prevent detritus from getting stuck in the first place. The women’s version has cut-out handles to make them easier to slip off.
If you want a rain boot that’s more like an everyday shoe: Consider the Saltwater Sperry. They’re styled just like duck boots, so why wouldn’t you want the original Bean Boot? Well, Bean Boots don’t just look like workwear, they are workwear, so the leather is stiff, the laces are rugged, and overall they have a fit and finish that are unmistakably utilitarian. If what you want is something that looks like a duck boot but is a regular shoe for walking around town, we like the Saltwater for men and women. They are extremely comfortable: The fleece lining makes them fit around the foot more like a shoe than a rain boot. Two caveats: we’re not sure how soon that lining will start to get ragged, and raw leather laces, like the type these come with, are notoriously easy to break. If we find any major quality issues we’ll update, but for now, we think you’ll be happy with this purchase.
If you want an under-$100 calf-height rain boot for women: There are a million possibilities, but we really like the Kelly and Molly boots from Joules (if you can find them). The Kelly was a pick for a long time, but the color options seem to have diminished. The Molly is the same model, but it comes in tons of different prints and patterns––which is fun, but hard to make a pick since everyone’s taste is different. Most boots in this price range are made of PVC, which is less flexible and less durable than rubber, but these are all-rubber boots (which is good for durability), with a well-fitting ankle and ergonomic calf. Meaning, they tend to fit wider calves but simultaneously don’t fwap against the back of your leg due to an overgenerous cut.
After five years of testing, our research list of boots is now more than 100 models long. We always consider online reviews, and we’ve consulted editorial sources such as Travel + Leisure, GearLab, Refinery29, Esquire, and Outside Online.
A few things make for a bad rain boot. Leaks are an obvious dealbreaker, but beware of styles that don’t fit your feet comfortably right out of the box, because rubber doesn’t stretch easily.
Aside from those two points, most rain boots fall somewhere on a spectrum of functionality, and there are things you can look for that will indicate what level of quality you’re getting.
In , we interviewed D’Wayne Edwards, the founder of the Pensole Footwear Design Academy, and he had a few things to say about finding boots that last:
Later, we discovered in our own testing that ergonomics play a big role in what makes a rain boot wearable, and certain shapes and styles perform much better than others. For example, a boot with a rounded toe is much more comfortable to walk in than a boot with a narrow, tapered toe. Traction matters, too—on a regular sunny day, of course, but even more when it’s raining, because metal and wood surfaces become slick.
We skipped testing waterproof shoes, waterproof leather, and lined boots, because they’re slightly different kinds of shoes for slightly different purposes. We did include duck boots; although they have leather uppers, they're uniquely designed for wet weather.
In we added 14 models to our test pool and took them all out walking in torrential rains and wet weather.
We hit the streets and urban trails in:
The 15-inch Xtratuf Legacy Boot for men and women is an all-around great boot that we’d still recommend. It’s high quality, it’s flexible at the ankle, it offers super-sticky soles, and it has stood the test of time. But we found that tiny rocks and debris get wedged in the tread and require picking out by hand.
Many of the women’s boots we tried fit and performed well but couldn’t unseat our top picks for small reasons, such as styling, inferior materials, or small upticks in price. Those include the Kamik Jennifer and the Kamik Heidi.
We have vetted the quality of the Hunter Women’s Original Tall and think this is worth buying if you like the look of a tall boot. But this shape overall is simply less wearable than an ankle- or calf-height boot.
As one commenter mentioned, Original Muck Boot Company Chore boots are a favorite among winery and brewery staff and horseback riders. If you love them, get them. But we still think the handled shaft on the women’s-model Bogs boots is an inspired design touch.
We found the Joules Tall Welly Print easy to walk in, but it bunched unattractively at the ankle. Pebbles also became lodged in the outside, requiring hand removal.
Both Hunter Women’s Original Chelsea and Sam Edelman Tinsley boots had the same problem as many other rain boots styled like dress shoes. In our tests, we found the shape of the toe and ankle to be slightly restrictive and uncomfortable when walking for extended periods of time.
The Asgard Chelsea boot on Amazon is so popular it’s head-spinning, garnering an average of 4.5 stars with more than 15,000 reviews. Regardless, this is a PVC boot with a narrow toe box and a wide, unprotected elastic panel that can let in water. We can confidently say that we don’t recommend this boot in any way as a functional rain boot.
The Kamik Lars, a calf-height rain boot for men, had some durability issues reported during long-term testing, with the sole slightly cracking from the shaft.
As one commenter mentioned, Muck Boots are a favorite among winery and brewery workers and horseback riders. If you love the Chore Mid boots, get them, but we really like the rounded sole of the Bogs for heavy mud.
The Kamik Icebreaker is more like a winter boot, as it is heavy and hot. It performed similar to the Bogs pair in the mud and proved a decent alternative for half the price.
Our testers liked the comfort of Eddie Bauer Men’s Hunt Pac with a plush lining, but the lacing didn’t lie as flush as on the Bean Boot.
The Kamik Yukon 5 is waterproof, but it rubbed our testers at the ankle.
Our male testers found the style of the Hunter Men’s Original Tall boot too feminine (despite the boots’ history as a men’s military and hunting shoe), but it performed among the best in the mud and landed in the midrange on traction tests. If you are into it, get it.
The Hunter Men’s Original Chelsea has the same issues as the women’s Chelsea from Hunter. The shape of the toe and ankle on this model was restrictive, and walking became uncomfortable for our testers. And unlike on the short and tall Hunter boots, the top of the shaft on the Chelsea is unfinished.
We also tested boots from Bogs, Crocs, Everlane, L.L.Bean, Madewell, and UGG that have since been discontinued.
I recently got a pair of Hunter Wellies (matte black). They are thick, comfortable, stylish and liberating. Think about it, when you wear shoes in the rain there’s a fear of getting wet feet, when you wear shoes in the mud you know they are going to be ruined. You can stomp around in almost any dirty or wet environment and feel no remorse nor concern about ruining your boots. They are designed to get wet and dirty! Admittedly, it’s pretty enjoyable to wear them!
Sometimes I feel it tough to justify a car wash during the Spring or Fall, because I feel as though I get them for free in the rain. Then when I do cave, my car looks amazing and I make a mental note to remember how fab my car looks and that it does need to be properly washed and treated even though it is getting these free ‘in-between’ washes. Hunter rain boots are the same way. Just because you wear them out in the rain doesn’t mean that they are continually being cleaned. They require special care! So, I’ve looked in to it and have created this blog post to explain the ins and outs of cleaning and caring for your Hunter Wellies.
When I was purchasing mine, the lady at the shoe store brought me out a box of brand new Hunter boots and I couldn’t wait to try them on. To my dismay (and slight horror), the fresh pair she busted out looked they had been doused in baby powder. I mean they were just covered in white powdery streaks, they looked awful. It was like having not one fly, but a colony of flies in your soup. I requested that she bring me another pair although she did assure me these were brand new. I didn’t want anything to do with these defective boots (so I thought) and ensured I had a clean pair to take home.
Relieved that I got away with the clean pair, I still purchased the Hunter Boot Buffer at the checkout (I’m so impulsive, I know).
Upon researching the proper way to clean Hunter boots, I found out that this powdery coating is a very common occurrence with Hunter boots and something not to be feared. The chalkiness is known as blooming and is clearly explained on the Hunter website.
Here’s what they have to say about blooming (I think it’s pretty clearly explained):
Occasionally, you may notice a white powdery “bloom” on your Hunter rubber footwear, this is because rubber is a natural product and in certain conditions, insoluble particles may rise to the surface. This is a normal process, characteristic of high quality, natural rubber and nothing to be concerned about.
So it sounds like we should be grateful if our boots do experience blooming, it means they are high quality! But wait, we still don’t want that blooming crud on our boots…Hunter goes on to explain,
This process does not affect the performance or durability of your boots. A pristine finish and shine is easily restored with regular use of Hunter Boot Buffer, or Instant Boot Shine, available from good Hunter retailers, as well as from our online store. Hunter Boot Buffer is not suitable for use on footwear with a metallic finish.
Right. The problem seems so simple and I think almost anything can be cleaned with a homemade remedy. But, I am curious about the Boot Buffer and glad I got it in the end (at minimum for comparison purposes). I think in this instance, Hunter knows their product best and has spent money researching the way to fight this blooming issue. Plus, these boots aren’t cheap and I’d like them to last me a while.I think I paid about $12 for the cleaner.
You may be wondering just what the conditions are that lead to blooming. Hot and humid weather is usually the cause for the release of this white coating.
Quite simply, the boots should be cleaned with lukewarm water and dish soap (what I ofter refer to as a neutral cleaner) which tackles dirt without harming any surfaces. The Hunter website states to do this after each wear, which sounds pretty unrealistic to me. I’d recommend doing it maybe once a week or once every couple of weeks and of course more frequently depending on usage.
What you’ll need:
1) Clean rags (for wet and dry use) cut up tee shirts and old towels are perfect.
2) Dish liquid, about 1 teaspoon
3) Clean spray bottle
4) Water, about 1 litre
5) Scrub brush, optional.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of white rubber boots. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
Note: You can do this without the spray bottle, I just think it is more convenient this way.
Add water to the spray bottle and then add the dish liquid. Close bottle and shake well. Gently spray the exterior of each boot being careful to not spray the interior. Let the solution sit for about 3 minutes and break the dirt down. Then, take a rag and start to wipe the dirt off. I always like to start at the top and work my way to the bottom. Ensure to get the soles of the boots clean too. If needed, these can be cleaned with a scrub brush and water.
If you have zippered boots, clean dirt from the zippers using a gentle brushing motion (downward) to remove dirt form the zippers.
Then, take a clean rag and begin to dry the boots off. Let them air dry; don’t place them directly in the sun and do not place them in the dryer. Heat can dry and age the rubber, which would lead to not only a shorter lifespan, but shrinking, cracking and deformation of the rubber.
If you wish to shine them,use Hunter Boot Buffer. Apply by spraying solution onto clean, dry boots (hold the bottle at least 6 inches away to get good coverage) and wipe clean with a cloth (like you are buffing them). You can also use the Hunter Instant Boot Shine, which is a self-contained silicone-impregnated sponge which instantly restores shine to your leather and rubber boots. To use that, simply buff clean, dry boots in a circular motion with the sponge. I did not get the sponge since my boots are matte, however I’ve heard enough about it to know that it works well.
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Here’s a big warning: do not spray any shine or treatment products on the soles, ever! This can make the soles more slippery and can be a hazard for you! Here’s a warning on their website:
There is an increased risk of slip with on-going sole wear. Exposure to solvents, oils and animal fats can swell the rubber, also increasing the risk of slip. Please note that Hunter Footwear contains natural latex rubber which some people may be allergic to. Some footwear and accessories with long trims are not suitable to be worn when near machinery.
If your boots are scuffed, after cleaning them try using a clean pencil eraser to rub away the scuffs. Do this gently over one scuff and see if it works (it should). Wipe the eraser shavings away with a clean cloth and keep going until that one scuff is gone. If you are not having luck with this method and want to try something else, get out your non-gel toothpaste and put a dab on your finger. Gently rub that into the scuff and wipe clean. Rinse area with water and buff dry, your scuffs should be gone! Sometimes, the scuffs cannot be removed. They are the result of chafing from the boots being rubbed together (if you walk with your feet too close and your ankles touch). Those you just have to accept as part of wear and tear – I have not been able to figure out how to remove those marks!
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A lot of people either cannot access nor find Hunter care products at their retailer, so they’ve been looking for alternatives to blooming correction. While I have done extensive research and data collection on the topic, I have not tried any of these myself. However, from what I have heard they seem to work well. I found a very useful post on PurseBlog.Com which provided a wealth of information about the blooming issue. Here’s what I have ascertained from this post as some viable alternatives to Hunter care products.
The first neat tip was to try some olive oil on a cloth (perhaps a teaspoon) and buff it into clean boots to remove the blooming. This has worked for some people, while others have said that the blooming returns the next day.
The second tip people kept talking about was using tire cleaning products like Armor All spray or wipes (found in the car care department at a big box store). By gently spraying and buffing their boots, they’ve gotten a beautiful, bloom-free shine.
Finally, a product called Mcnett UV Tech was continually recommended. This is a product that is designed to protect all kinds of natural and synthetic materials from the elements and restoring their natural shine. People have raved about this product for Hunter boot shining as well, so it would be worth trying if you wanted to purchase something that would maintain other household and leisure items (it’s a multipurpose product).
Now, Hunter does warn against this (like any good company that wants to avoid liability would), but the people have spoken so you can make your own call. I’ve spent good money on mine so I don’t want to risk anything, however if I didn’t have the option to purchase their boot cleaner, I’d certainly try one of these alternatives.
Firstly, always wear a sock with your boots. Socks are designed to absorb odour and moisture, so do keep this in mind.
Rain boots keep water out and trap water in…they are designed to be impermeable by water. So, if you aren’t wearing socks and get water in your wellies, you’ll be sloshing around all day and may come home with a case of food fungus also. And never leave your wet socks in the boots to dry, that will most certainly cause mold and mildew to grow, not to mention leave you with one precious smelling pair of boots.
Hunter boots are lined with Nylon and do take a period of time to dry. If yours are soaked, they need to be aired out and dried. Do this in a cool, dry environment and give ample time for this to occur, likely 24-48 hours. Good things (like dry, non-moldy boots) come to those who wait.
What you can do to absorb moisture and help with drying and odour removal is crumple up a bunch of newspaper and stuff the boots (kind of like when you try shoes on and you have to take out giant wads of paper from the shoes). People say this works very well. I have not had the opportunity to test it out yet since I’ve only recently gotten mine and haven’t soaked them yet, but this makes sense to me and I would try it when this does inevitably happen to me.
Wipe out
From time to time, you can lightly mist vinegar and water (a 50/50 solution) into the boot to kill odours and clean the lining. Once the interior is misted, take a cloth and wipe out the interior, focussing on the toe and heel areas specifically. Let the boots dry in a cool and dry place for 24-48 hours. If you are concerned about vinegar stanking up your boots, don’t. The smell of vinegar dissipates quickly and never returns to haunt you.
Keep the boots in a cool, dry area which is not located close to an area of extreme cold, heat or sunlight. Always store boots upright, don’t fold or crease them. If you wish, rill up a couple of old magazines and use those to retain the shape of the boot and help them stand up. Cool and dry is so important because anything but these conditions can lead to mold and mildew growth in the boots which lead to odors and discoloration (read: boots are unwearable).
If you want to get crafty, you can make odour and moisture absorbing sachets to toss in your boots when they are drying out. You can fill the sachets with cedar chips (which keep mold away and smell terrif), or rice (which is cheap and amazing at absorbing moisture) or even placing a couple of silica packets in the boots.
So friends, that’s how to keep your wellies clean, dry and gorgeous for ever and ever. Post your questions, pictures and experiences below!
Exposing your boots to moisture and then putting them away without allowing for proper drying can damage your boots and also cause mould to grow. Finally, you should store your rubber boots in a place that is well-ventilated and cool, but not cold. Extreme temperatures can cause your rubber boots to dry out and crack.
How to Keep Rubber Boots from Cracking
Let’s have a look at how to prevent rubber boots from cracking!
1. Cleaning Your Rubber Boots
To keep your boots in pristine condition, clean the whole exterior of your boots after each usage. You can wipe all the dirt, dust, or mud away using a sponge and prevent them from wearing out or cracking over time.
Remember to wash your boots after each usage so they don’t sit with dirt or mud on them for long periods, as this can dry out your rubber boots.
After each use usage, simply hosepipe them off, but if they are really dirty, clean with light soap and a gentle brush or rag. For the best results, you can use a dishwashing liquid and a boot brush scraper or brush.
2. Applying Rubber Conditioner on your Boots
Conditioning your rubber boots regularly is essential for extending the life of your boots. Rubber can fade and break down prematurely when exposed to direct sunlight.
It is critical to condition your boots regularly to avoid irreversible damage (which can be visible as flaked, cracked, or extremely dry rubber).
You can use a rubber conditioner once a month, after heavy use, or once every few weeks during the off-season. After cleaning and drying your boots, use a soft cloth to apply the conditioner liberally.
Allow your boots to dry overnight, and then wipe away any remaining moisture in the morning.
Some Helpful Hints to Consider when Conditioning your Boots:
Avoid exposing them to extreme temperatures or direct sunshine since this can cause your boot to crack or break.
Use a good conditioner like 303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner to condition your boots every couple of months.
After applying it to your boots, wash off any excess and let them dry overnight.
Allow the interior of your boots to dry naturally before using them again.
3. Storing your Boots
Store rubber boots in a temperature-controlled room, such as the basement or closet, when not in use.
If kept outside, the rubber in the boots will shrink and grow as the temperature changes from day to night. The result could be your boots cracking.
Additionally, try not to fold your boots; instead, you can opt to hang them upside down or leave them upright on the boot rack.
Lastly, to increase the life of your boots, use a conditioner after wearing them a few times.
Rubber boots are strong, lightweight, sturdy, and, most importantly, they’re waterproof. If they’re cared for, they can last for decades. But, 90 times out of 100, rubber boots dry rot.
Rubber boots are strong, lightweight, sturdy, and, most importantly, they’re waterproof. If they’re cared for, they can last for decades. But, 90 times out of 100, rubber boots dry rot.
Just because rubber boots are expensive it doesn’t mean they wouldn’t dry rot! It’s not practical. Every material, even if it’s the highest and finest quality leather, will dry rot if not cared for. Rubber boots are no different. But the good news is, with proper care, you can keep your new pair from dry rotting.
Direct sun exposure is the primary reason behind dry rotting. Since rubber boots are designed for outdoor purposes such as going on treks and hunting, there’s no way that they won’t get exposed to the Sun. What can be done instead is to make them Sun-ready.
You can use a high-quality boot conditioner to keep your rubber boots from dry rotting. This isn’t the only way though. Proper storage can also protect rubber boots from dry rotting.
5 Ways to Protect Your Rubber Boots From Dry Rotting
It’s not hard to keep rubber boots from dry rotting if you can pay attention to some details. Their maintenance is neither expensive nor time-consuming.
The 5 ways that’ll take your rubber boots a long way and keep them from dry rotting have been explained below!
1) Clean Them Regularly
Cleaning rubber boots is expensive – says who? You can use a mild detergent (even the liquid you use to wash your utensils is enough) to clean the surface of rubber boots.
Apply some mild soap or detergent on the surface of the boots, scrub it gently, and wash it or wipe it. That’s all! It will keep your rubber boots from dry rotting.
Even if you can’t clean the surface of your boots with a mild soap weekly, you can simply wipe off their surface with a moist cloth daily.
It’s important that you let the surface dry in natural air before storing the boots after washing them. Storing them while they’re still wet will lead to another problem – the boots will start smelling and might also get affected by fungus. Always let the surface dry before keeping the boots away.
2) Apply Some Olive Oil to the Surface Once in a While
It might sound funny or impractical to some people, but it isn’t. Olive oil hydrates the surface of rubber boots.
When applied to clean boots, the molecules of the oil seep inside the surface and soften the rubber, preventing it from getting dry or developing cracks.
3) Use a Boot Conditioner
This is one of the most important things you need to do at least twice a month if you can’t do it every week.
A high-quality boot conditioner (we will take you through some amazing options at a later section in this guide) works much like olive oil – only that it’s better than olive oil.
Using a boot conditioner can protect the surface from dry rotting by moisturizing and softening rubber. Don’t skip this step if you really want your boots to last and look as good as brand new even after years of use.
4) Store the Boots Carefully
First off, don’t throw them precariously or pile other shoes (anything heavy) on top of them. Doing that will eventually damage the surface of your boots.
It is also very important to store your boots inside cabinets. If you can store them carefully in the basement, nothing like it. Any place that will keep them away from flickering temperature will keep them safe from dry rotting.
If stored in a place that sees temperature change from hot to cold very rapidly, the rubber will shrink. Needless to say, it will lead to dry rot sooner than later.
5) Wax the Surface Once in a While
Waxing the surface while stepping out is a good idea. It works as a barrier between the surface of the rubber and the sun. Naturally, it will keep your rubber boots from dry rotting.
Did you know that you can also apply Vaseline on top of your rubber boots while stepping outside? Don’t forget to wipe off the extra traces though.
Do's and Don’ts to Protect Your Rubber Boots From Dry Rotting
Here’s a small list that’ll definitely help:
1) Store the boots in a shoe rack or a cabinet that’s ventilated.
2) Don’t keep them in places that are hot or moist. The storage should be dry.
3) If you’re hanging them for air drying after washing them, hang them upside down.
4) Don’t polish rubber boots with the shoe polish you’d use for leather boots. Use products that are specifically made for rubber boots.
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Rubber boots are trusted waterproof boot options that many wearers rely on to keep their feet dry during work, neighborhood walks, or hunting expeditions. While they are an effective option, what happens when they get a hole or they start to crack? Can they be repaired?
Most of the time, yes, you can repair waterproof rubber boots. How easy they are to repair often depends on the severity of the hole, and much like leather boots, routine care and maintenance can help them last much longer.
Compared to other boot styles, rubber boots do not require a high level of maintenance to keep them in good condition. The three main areas of consideration are boot cleaning, conditioning, and storage.
To clean rubber boots, most experts recommend simply using mild soap and water. For the most part, this will do the trick. Like other shoes, keeping the boots free from mud and debris helps prevent the materials from drying out. If you routinely keep your boots clean and they still appear dirty with white or ashy marks, the rubber may go through a blooming process. This process is normal with natural rubber and can be corrected with conditioning. Blooming doesn’t mean the rubber is old or bad, but it can make the boots less pleasant to look at.
In correcting the blooming process and protecting the rubber from early breakdown, conditioning comes into play. Always clean the rubber before conditioning. We recommend conditioning the rubber before the boots start to crack and flake, and this can be done with a rubber conditioner. Follow the directions on your chosen rubber conditioner for the best results. For most conditioners, apply with a cloth on clean, dry boots every couple of months. Wipe any excess conditioner off the boots and allow them to dry overnight (8-12 hours).
The final care tip for rubber boots is to store them in a temperature-regulated area out of the sun. Avoid storing them outside or in garages that do not have temperature control. These temperature changes can cause the rubber to grow or shrink, cracking and damaging the materials. Whenever possible, ensure the boots are stored upright and do not fold the tops over. Keeping the boots folded can lead to cracking and splitting.
If the boots begin to crack, the rubber is dried out or could be old. However, not all hope is lost! Most cracks in rubber boots can be repaired with a little shoe goo or other adhesives. Small holes can also be repaired in the same manner. Excessive cracking and flaking may mean that the rubber is dry and should be conditioned to attempt to restore the materials.
Clean the boots with soap and water. Take special care to clean the cracked area thoroughly.
Let the boots dry completely.
Smooth out the rough surface of the cracked area with sandpaper. Too much pressure will damage the rubber. The goal is to smooth out any rough surfaces of the boot to help the adhesive bond more easily.
Tape off the area around the cracked area. This will prevent the adhesive from spreading to other areas of the boot beyond the cracked portion. Leave close to ½ an inch of room between the crack and the tape.
Apply your chosen adhesive to the cracked area and cover the ½ inch area up to the tape to prevent the crack from expanding.
Remove the tape and allow the boots to dry overnight (8-12) hours.
Sandpaper the repaired area smoothly once the adhesive is dry.
Read and follow the instructions for your chosen adhesive before repairing the boots. Dry times and other general factors may differ from the instructions provided above.
For small holes, follow the same instructions you would when fixing a crack in the rubber. Larger holes need a little more attention, but they can usually be repaired. If the hole is on the bottom of the boot, we recommend resoling the boots. If the hole is on the upper portion of the boots, follow the instructions below.
Clean the boots and let them dry.
Get a piece of rubber the same color as the boots and cut the rubber piece slightly larger than the hole. A tube tire repair kit also works to patch holes as long as they are for rubber. You may need to cut these to size as well.
You may need to sand around the patch area or use the small tool provided with a tube tire repair kit to rough up the area around the hole.
Apply adhesive to the area around the hole, even if the patches come with adhesive on the back.
Smooth the patch over the hole. Press firmly, starting in the center and working your way out. Wipe any excess adhesive off or smooth it around the patch’s edges.
Allow the adhesive to fully dry (8-12 hours).
Consider sewing the patch to the boots after applying adhesive for large patch areas or added security. This generally isn’t necessary but can be effective if you are worried about durability.
Yes, you can resole rubber boots. Contact a local shoe repair shop if you do not know how to do this or are not confident in your abilities. Resoling the boots often requires a heat gun to remove the soles, cleaning the remaining adhesive, applying the new sole, and cutting it to size.
Yes, superglue does work on rubber. Although it is effective, we still recommend rubber shoe-specific adhesives for the best results. However, if superglue is all you have on hand, it can be an adequate substitute. Superglue is not recommended for rubber that has a high oil or plasticizer content though.
Depending on the level of damage or degradation, rubber can be restored. For rubber boots, rubber conditioners are the best solution.
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